Crowded (as in: every single seat taken and you would not believe how many people happily squeezed in standing behind the last rows during the shows), late (as in “fashionably late”) and occasionally exciting – that is how I could describe yesterday at BFW.

I was looking forward to seeing Ana Šekularac show, who flew with her new collection directly from London. A little trivia: when Victoria Beckham was shot smiling in public for the first time ever, it was while she was wearing Ana’s clothes. I can certify that if I’d wear Ana’s new collection, I would be smiling all the time too.  But, I need a suitable occasion for her dresses: please submit your extravagant invitations to my mail. Check out her artisan draping:

Later on, I moved to another catwalk in sleepy (had a looong day), but happy anticipation of Dejan Despotović show. But, before Dejan, a guest from Slovenia Miro Misljen had his moment. There were recycled-looking layers, there were post-apocalyptic crinolines, there were punk references, there were several live Ken guys, there was knitting, nets and flowers, there were many dropped jaws and- I was not sleepy any more at all, quite awake for the beginning of Dejan Despotović show.

The show looked like a White Stripes video, in a strict palette of red, white and black. Staying true to what makes him recognizable, but adding just enough innovation to give us something new to droll about (like the red trench or slim pants with transparent panels), Dejan has done it again- only maybe even better this time.

Honestly, I am thorn: on one hand, I support every initiative that has a goal to promote local fashion scene and that helps designers reaching audience and getting attention. On the other hand, the point of being there and writing about it is to say what we saw and to share the impressions.

So, I say this out of support: if there is a show titled “young designers”- new, outrageous, fresh, crazy ideas bursting with creativity, even shock maybe is what is expected.  So, last night I indeed was shocked, but not in a good way. The “Young Designers” show opened with confection-like clothes for sexy secretaries, with no obvious styling involved at all. It ended with a collection that had at least some interest to it- and that was playing with volume in floating, soft fabrics.

Now,  it is what happened in between that was interesting: black and white, sculptural collection of Marta Miljanic, consisting mainly of mini dresses. This collection obviously had some conceptual thinking behind and and if we compare it with what Marta showed last year at BFW, we can see that she has taken her stand and is on a way of forming her own “thing” in designing.  Playing with geometry and contrasts (light/dark, sheer / heavy) makes me wonder: do we have our new “fashion architect” here? I would not mind! This is a designer I am looking forward to see what she will do next and how will her ideas and aesthetic evolve in the future.

After that show, I gave myself somewhat more than an hour off, as I was… hm, not interested in what was next in the schedule (which doesn’t mean that the certain show was not crowded with very aesthetically coordinated visitors and customers).  A gin & tonic and some yawning later, Tamara Radivojevic started and it was clear from the start that she was worth the wait!

She sent her “urban warriors” to the catwalk wearing futuristic Mohawks and made it immediately clear to all of us that there was no joking around with these girls or this collection. It was perfectly executed, coherent from the beginning to the end, from tops of the metal spikes on their heads to the soles of their shoes. Once again, she opted for her recognizable palette of muted and neutrals with occasional bursts of electric blue and red. I love how she balances tough and feminine- and that balance makes it so modern and so wearable right here and right now. I mean, those pants…those pants I want! And did you notice the little, stylized elements of armor? Hey, who are we foolin'- I am just I girl- I would wear it all, even the spiky metal headpieces!

Belgrade Fashion Week has grown and matured enough to accept its unique individuality. It is a different breed. And luckily, it is not waisting its energy on futile attempts to pretend to be like its bigger, more glamorous sisters from the four worlds’ fashion capitals. It is what it is- an incident in a country with still pretty much devastated textile industry, conceived and run by a small group of hard working enthusiasts, with its creative powers relying strictly on creative, equally madly enthusiastic individuals, rather then on a powerful, well organized industry.

Therefore, no other place then Choomich Design District would have been more suitable for its opening, as it is the place equally rich in symbolism of metamorphosis of times (check out here for more info about its transition from riches to rags and then to the hip creative hub it is now) and in fresh, bright local talents (40 fashion designers already selling in neighboring small boutiques there and counting).

It was unpretentious, welcoming and charming, but if you have missed it- worry not, because the things are just starting. Check out the program here and don’t forget- today on a catwalk-tomorrow in Choomich Design District, plus- there are special discounts in most of the shops during the Fashion Week. Like!

Nenad Radujevic, director of Belgrade Fashion Week (probably oh so tired, but bravely hiding)

Tijana Pavlov, Ana Ljubinkovic, Dejan Despotovic and Ivana Stevancevic, part of the happy Choomich designers group

There is a small gallery called “Litlle Singidunum” right in the center of the city, in Knez Mihajlova Street. Well, this modest little space hasn’t in a long time been more flamboyant then these days, as it is hosting two exhibitions with amazing attention-grabbing powers, judging from the reactions of passers-by.  

The gallery window has been turned into a mini-exhibition space for Evica Milovanovic Penezic leather gloves. Explosion of colors and shapes, in the softest of leathers, will make you feel like a child in front of a candy shop. A little trivia: the future Queen of England wears Evica’s gloves too.  Speaking of Kate and royal weddings, after you spend some mouth-watering moments with these beautiful gloves, prepare for more surprises.

Enter the gallery, come down stairs and you will find yourself at the exhibition of hats by Leonora Vekic and Miodrag Rogan. In the best tradition of modern day milliner-superstars Phillip Tracy and Stephen Jones, the hats are fascinating to look at like exotic, rare birds, and like all phantasmagoric creatures- extremely challenging to tame for the real life.  

They are meant only for the exceptional occasions, but even if you haven’t been invited to Kate and William’s wedding (oh, those clumsy wedding-planners!) and don’t have an extravagant ball in your planner, try them on and see how they resonate with your inner eccentric that has been suffering under jeans for all these years.